Home Break: Blackies in Newport
Born in Newport Beach, my parents moved to the West Side of Costa Mesa early on. I went to school in Costa Mesa then went to Orange Coast College.I would say throughout my life Surfing has been the one thing that I have held on to the longest. Blackies in the slum of Newport has been my home break.
I started out surfing in Coalition contests picking up a little recognition here and there, it was nice. However, in the midst of all this, I found that there will always be someone that surfs better than me and looks better while doing it. I couldn't come to grips with this, I let it manifest and bring me down. It was shitty. It didn't take long until I lost sight of my passion for surfing and I got caught up in the party scene. You know SEX, DRUGS, AND ROCK N ROLL. One thing led to another and I hit rock bottom.
It wasn't until I made the decision for MYSELF, that I needed help to change the course of this wave they call life. Now, after 4 & 1/2 years of sobriety, can say that I got " More Life and Less Me" and I have gained wisdom for the future.